What I ate in Shimla after escaping the Mall Road crowds

Mall Road in Shimla is beautiful, but even by early afternoon it becomes loud, crowded, and a bit too curated for my tastes. I wanted to find out what the locals eat in Shimla daily, rather than the foods that are aimed towards tourists to the region. Therefore, I explored the older and narrower lanes that lie behind Mall Road, and that is where I found my best meals in Shimla.

Lower Bazaar in Shimla is where the real flavours hide

A short flight of stairs down from Mall Road takes you into Lower Bazaar, and the shift is immediate. The lanes narrow, the shopfronts get simpler, and the smell of frying oil and spices replaces the usual mix of coffee and perfume. This is where I had my first proper chana bhatura, a soft, puffed bread served with spiced chickpeas and a sharp, tangy chutney on the side. It was cheap, filling, and clearly a local favourite rather than something dressed up for visitors. If you are staying in one of the hotels in Shimla close to the centre, Lower Bazaar is an easy, short walk away.

Lakkar Bazaar in Shimla feels like a different town altogether

Lakkar Bazaar is situated just off the Ridge but feels like it belongs to another world from the Mall Road crowd. Lakkar Bazaar is famous for its wooden crafts, but it is also home to numerous eateries that have been in operation for decades. I came across one such eatery that is famous for its luchi and chana dish. This eatery has been serving this dish for six generations. The luchi was served hot and slightly puffed. The chana was filling and was reminiscent of home-cooked meals. This dish was one of the best that I ate on the entire trip.

Trying babru in Shimla away from the main crowd

Babru was a local snack I had not heard of before this trip, a small, deep-fried whole wheat flatbread stuffed with a spiced urad dal filling. I found it at a stall well away from Mall Road, sold alongside tea rather than as part of a fancy menu. It had a lightly crisp exterior and a soft, flavourful centre, and it paired perfectly with a strong cup of masala tea on a cold afternoon. As a traditional Himachali speciality, babru is one of those simple local foods that leaves a lasting impression and is well worth trying if you come across it.

A proper Himachali thali in Shimla, away from the tourist menus

For something more substantial, I found a small eatery specialising in Himachali food, tucked into the middle bazaar area between Mall Road and Lower Bazaar. I tried siddu, a steamed bread stuffed with a spiced filling, along with chana madryoghurt-basedbased curry that had a gentle tang to it. Both dishes felt distinctly regional, nothing like the more generic North Indian food available closer to the main road. If you want to understand what Himachali households actually cook, this kind of thali is the place to start.

Why moving away from Road Road changed how I saw Shimla

Mall Road is designed for visitors, and there is nothing wrong with that. But food in the older bazaars felt more authentic and less commercialised. Prices were lower, portions were generous, and nobody seemed to be selling an experience so much as simply feeding people well. Once I started eating in these lanes, the whole trip felt less like sightseeing and more like actually spending time in the town.

Practical tips for eating well in Shimla

Give yourself time to wander the Lower Bazaar and Lakkar Bazaar lanes slowly, since the best spots are often small and easy to miss if you are rushing. Carry some cash, as many of these older eateries do not always accept cards. Go a little hungry too, because portions are generous and it is easy to want to try more than one thing. Staying centrally makes all of this easier to reach without needing transport, letting you slip between Mall Road and the quieter bazaars whenever the mood strikes.